Whenever curating a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee well-known high-end establishments. However, situated prominently among these food giants is a simple salonu found in a distant part of northern London.
The little Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. This honour has left the family totally shocked.
“I’m completely astonished,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their modest shop achieving such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.
This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.
Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent texture.
It is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. When the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.
The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.
Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.
While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.
It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.
“I believe what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”
This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.
In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.
Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“My mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.
The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary achievement.